California's Other Wine Country

Have you been to California's wine country? When asked, most people think of Napa, Sonoma or the Central Coast. But you also can savor fantastic wineries and a wonderful foodie experience in Southern California's Temecula Valley, about an hour from either San Diego or the Los Angeles area.

Blessed with gorgeous weather year-round, Temecula is home to nearly 40 wineries, produces artisan foods such as olive oil and cheeses, and boasts one of the best farmer's markets around. The city's charming Old Town area brims with unique restaurants and shops.

I grazed my way through Temecula recently when my in-laws, both food and wine connoisseurs, visited from Mississippi. We had a fantastic time exploring the culinary offerings and gorgeous vistas of Temecula. The tour also was a terrific family activity--my children, ages 6 and 7, loved the olive oil and balsamic vinegar tastings and had fun watching cheese being made.

If you're in Southern California or headed that way, here are my top seven recommendations for touring the Temecula Valley.

1. Temecula Olive Oil Company (28653 Front St.). This must-see California olive oil producer has an inviting store in the heart of Old Town with a huge selection of olive oils and vinegars. The tasting bar offers a sampling of eight olive oils served in tiny cups--a few sips' worth of each. In addition to the premier reserve extra virgin olive oil, you can try flavored offerings such as Citrus Olive Oil, Basil Olive Oil, Fajita Frenzy (Persian Lime) Olive Oil and Roasted Garlic Olive Oil. The flavored olive oils are paired with a complementary vinegar, such as Vanilla and Fig Balsamic Vinegar or Honey Vinegar. We left with a collection of olive oils, balsamic vinegars, sea salt (they have a wonderful selection), olives (another large selection) and scented olive oil soaps.

2. Temecula Wineries. Our mini-tour included Falkner Winery, Cougar Winery, Robert Renzoni Vineyards and Wilson Creek (for its Almond Sparkling Wine). We visited Temecula several years ago and were impressed with the improvement since then in the quality of the wines we sampled. The region's hot weather results in intense wines--dry whites, sweet dessert wines, fruity Sangioveses and jammy Zinfandels. I was especially intrigued by the wines offered at Cougar. The winery's focus is on unusual Italian varietals that grow in a similar climate in Italy. Last week, my husband and I opened a bottle of Dolcetto from our visit and really enjoyed the intense, fruity flavors.

Most of the wineries are located just northeast of Old Town Temecula (here's a map). The proximity of so many wineries to Old Town makes the valley a good choice for a wine-tasting tour or romantic weekend getaway.

3. Old Town. I asked Celine Cossou, Temecula local and owner of Celine's Cuisine, for her favorite downtown spots. Last year, Cossou conducted the first "Walking and Tasting Tour in Old Town Temecula," a hit with locals and visitors alike, and Cossou will be conducting another one in September. Here's her list:

• Café Daniel (28601 Front St.). Excellent French crepes, gelato and aromatic coffee are served in this European-style bistro.
  
• Spice Merchants (41925 5th St.). Spices, teas and exotic blends are found here.
  
• Chili Roaster Gourmet (28690 Front St.). This cute shop sells exotic chili peppers, hot sauces and powders (Cossou notes that the shop is usually a hit with men).
  
• Old Town Sweet Shop (28545 Front St., Ste. 101). Fudge, candies, chocolates and other sweets are made at the store.
  
• Temecula Valley Cheese Co. (42072 5th St.). This is the place for Haloumi cheese, Basque cheese and real Goat Cheese. Cheeses usually arrive on Wednesdays and Thursdays. 
• Public House (41971 Main St.). This Old Town restaurant serves seasonal and sustainable products, with an innovative menu that changes regularly.
  

4. Winery Restaurants. We enjoyed a great Mediterranean-style lunch and panoramic views at the Pinnacle Restaurant, next to Falkner Winery. Another choice is at Ponte Winery, where the award-winning Smokehouse Restaurant features a lovely garden and terrace.

5. South Coast Winery Resort and Spa (34843 Rancho California Rd.). My in-laws enjoyed a wine-tasting here and raved about the resort, the restaurant and the ambience. The Grapeseed Spa offers Vinotherapy, an anti-aging/anti-oxidant skin treatment using grapeseed oil, a technique pioneered by Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux, France.

6. Local Cheese. My husband, Cary, has been intrigued with cheese-making for a few years and has tried his hand at making cheese. There aren't many artisan cheese producers in Southern California (more are located in the Sonoma area), but we scouted and found Winchester Cheese, known for its Gouda made according to a family recipe. If you time your visit just right, you can peek through the window and watch the cooks stirring vats of curds and packing them into molds. You can sample and buy many varies of aged and flavored Gouda. The cheesemaker is at 32605 Holland Rd. in Winchester, a 20- minute drive from Old Town.

7. Cooking Classes and Culinary Tour. For a hands-on experience, Celine's Cuisine offers cooking classes for all levels (ages 3-5; 6-14; and adults). Classes range from French classic cooking to vegetarian. One popular offering is "From the Market to Your Table," a once-a-month Saturday session. Participants tour the Old Town Farmer's Market, meet farmers and vendors, buy ingredients, and then help cook and eat a feast together. (Here's a piece I wrote about her Cooking with Trader Joe's class.)

More info: The Temecula Valley is 20 miles inland from the Pacific coast and 60 miles north of San Diego, just off U.S. 15. Visit the Temecula Wine Growers Association online or the city of Temecula website.

Story and photos by Deana Gunn.