A Green Wine Country Getaway
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I have always loved the Sonoma town of Healdsburg. That's partly because it sits smack-dab in the middle of three of California's best wine-growing regions (the Alexander Valley, the Dry Creek Valley and the Russian River Valley), and partly because it's stayed true to its rural roots, managing to avoid the big crowds, big tasting-room fees and (all too frequently) big attitude of Napa Valley.
Lately, though, I have even more reason to love Healdsburg. This casually sophisticated Sonoma town has gone green, making it possible for a semi-dedicated, ecologically conscious visitor to spend a weekend--or a week--eating, sleeping, drinking, shopping and touring Healdsburg without leaving behind a size-12 carbon footprint.
Stay Green: The big buzz in Healdsburg these days is the opening of h2hotel, a 36-room LEED-certified hotel that takes green seriously (the wave-shaped roof is designed to lessen the impact of runoff on nearby Foss Creek), as well as stylishly (tiger-striped sustainable bamboo floors and chemical-free fair-trade wool felt rugs in every room). The very cool Spoonfall lobby water sculpture--constructed from 3,500 tiny espresso spoons--is fed by an underground cistern. Every floor has a water bar that dispenses both still and sparkling. At Spoonbar, h2hotel's restaurant, wine is served on tap, eliminating all that environmentally unfriendly packaging. And bar master Scott Beattie has concocted a collection of farm-to-glass cocktails made with local organic ingredients, including citrus from the h2hotel's own trees. Rooms start at $195 at h2hotel (707-922-5251; 219 Healdsburg Ave.).
Eat Green: Dine at Barndiva, Healdsburg's hip restaurant-in-a-barn, and you will know the name of the organic farm that grew your frisée and the ranch where your hamburger was raised. Jil Hales, the diva of Barndiva, is the founder of Fork & Shovel, the Match.com of farmers and chefs. Fork & Shovel connects small sustainable producers with local restaurant chefs--on the web and, eventually, in the kitchen. And the menu at Barndiva (Sonoma duck hash with locally pastured eggs, lamb from a nearby ranch topped with olive relish from Sonoma orchards) is the deliciously locavore result. Brunch averages $14, dinners $25 at Barndiva (707-431-0100; 231 Center St.).
Drink Green: No matter how green it gets, Healdsburg is still all about the wine. But these days, you can sip to your heart's content without sacrificing your eco ethics. At Quivira (707-431-8333; 4900 West Dry Creek Rd.), the vineyards are biodynamically farmed, the winery is mostly powered by solar panels, and the grounds have been given over to organic gardens. (The income from these gardens goes toward funding health insurance for local low-income families.) Time it right, and you can have dinner in the vineyard during the Farm-to-Table events hosted by Quivira and Relish Culinary Adventures. Lou Preston of Preston Winery (707-433-3372; 9282 West Dry Creek Rd.) is a local environmental legend. His vineyards are certified organic. And the only herbicides and pesticides he uses are the chickens, sheep and pigs he lets roam among the vines. Visitors to Preston's tasting room can pick up a dozen fresh eggs and the latest gleanings from Lou's organic garden along with their Syrah and Mourvedre.
Tour Green: If you really want to tour the Healdsburg wine country while keeping your greenhouse gases to a mere whiff, consider trading your Prius for a bike. Wine Country Bikes (866-922-4537; 61 Front St.) not only rents bikes, but they'll also take you on a tour of organic farms and vineyards, all in the company of a local farmer. A one-day organic bike tour, including bike rental and picnic lunch, costs $149 per person.
Shop Green: Arboretum (707-433-7033; 332 Healdsburg Ave.) is proof that "ethical apparel" doesn't mean you have to look like you've spent your life on a commune. The clothes here are made from organic materials, ethically manufactured, and so stylish, you don't even have to mention that they're ecologically friendly.
Relax Green: Because you can't really relax if you're worried that your spa treatment is contributing to global warming, the Spa at Hotel Healdsburg (800-889-7188; 25 Matheson St.) offers biodynamic massages and body wraps. How about a Meyer lemon-and-sage body wrap, followed by an olive oil massage? Or a hydrating treatment of organic honey and Sonoma wine? Or a raw sugar body polish? Being environmentally correct has never been more soothing. Spa treatments begin at $110.
Getting there: Healdsburg is about 70 miles north of San Francisco near US 101. For more information, visit Healdsburg.com.
